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$450 Brakes vs $4,500 Brakes | HiLow

$450 Brakes vs $4,500 Brakes | HiLow

(engine revving) – [Man] Oh, you got it,
keep going, keep going! – $450 break upgrade kit– – Versus $4,400 Big Brake Kit. – Does more expensive mean more better? – Let’s find out. I sure hope so. (laughing) (exciting music) – Hey, guys, we made a
show called Car Wars. The Donut gang going against some of your favorite
YouTubers, like ChrisFix. Loser had to eat a very spicy chip. Very spicy but very fun to watch. The hardest challenge was
the VR third-person driving. I almost threw up ’cause
I got motion sickness. (gags)
(laughs) (beep)
We bought two almost identical Nissan 350Zs and we’ve been modifying
them to be fun daily drivers that you can take to the track. – My Z gets a ton of
really expensive parts and Nolan’s car gets
a bunch of cheap ones. – We’re gonna test them side by side and see which components are worth spending your hard-earned money on. – So far we’ve installed coilovers and new wheel and tire combos
on our twin 350Zs, and today, we’re movin’ onto the brakes. We wanna see what kinda results we can get from a really basic but
still good brake upgrade versus a full monty, daddy I’m
going into credit card debt for this brake kit brake kit. Look how much bigger
my pads are than yours. – And these are my front pads. Size comparison. That’s pretty enormous. The Big Brake Kit doesn’t necessarily mean more braking power, it’s
just that you’ll be able to do harder braking for longer because the heat is being distributed over a larger area than mine. With these tiny little guys, I think I’m gonna have some
pretty gnarly brake fade after stepping on ’em a lot, many times, a lot of many times. – Also look how much bigger the vents are on the Wilwood kit versus Nolan’s. A lot more air’s gonna pass through those and it’s gonna cool the
brakes a lot better. We’re just fightin’ heat and
we are gonna come out on top. – Honestly, I think his baller-ass setup is gonna blow mine away. – This is honestly the
best day of my life. – No contest which is better. (laughing) – You never know! I mean, yeah! Looks like mine is almost
certainly 1,000% better, but let’s just wait and
see if the Wilwood kit is really so much better that it’s worth those
thousands of dollars. (hiphop music) Brakes. – Big or small? – That is the question. – Today we have the answer.
– We’re gonna find out. (beep) – [Narrator] When
upgrading your brake kit, there are a handful of different pieces you can opt to replace. Rotors, pads, calipers,
brake lines, and brake fluid. On high car, we’re
swappin’ out all of those. In the low car we’ll do the
same, except for calipers. Because new calipers are just
too dang expensive for Nolan and his poor team. – And all that together
should make our brakes firmer and more consistent at the track. Upgraded rotors can help dissipate heat with more effective venting, added slots, and/or increased surface area. – Know what I mean?
– Power tools, baby! – Me, I’m just a car boy. (tool buzzing) (laughs) (tool buzzing) – You got what, 12 bolts here? – I can’t keep track of that
in my head so as we torque ’em we’ll mark ’em and then well,
once they’re all marked, they’re all torqued. My brake rotor won’t fit with
this dust shield on there. To get it off we can either
take the whole hub off or do some custom engineering. (tools buzzing) – The other part of being bigger is that a larger friction ring allows you to run a larger pad. – [James] Upgraded pads can be made with more heat-tolerant materials, and bigger pads also dissipate heat easier with their larger surface area. But in order to have bigger
pads, you need bigger calipers. – It needs force all across it. This is a single-piston caliper. If you’re pushing on the back
of this pad with one piston, you don’t have any force on the sides, so you need a big circle? No, you can’t do that! So you do a few little circles. So this has pistons on both sides, inside and behind that pad, and
since this is a fixed rotor, without the sliding piece this
thing doesn’t flex at all, so you get a really firm,
really consistent brake pedal. – Got the new Wildwood 10. Hold on, hello? What’s up, babe? I’m at the shop. Yeah, the boys are here. Yeah, we’re kickin’ it,
yeah we’re havin’ fun! Yeah we’re building the HiLow Zs. Oh.
(laughs) Ooh, maybe. Well, I think we can arrange that. (laughs) Yeah, I’ll be home late. (kisses) (upbeat music) – With all this other stuff we also replaced the brake lines, that’s usually a part
of the Big Brake Kit. Because stock lines are
often this soft and durable and flexible rubber, which
is great for daily driving and it’s great for longevity, but it’s not great for performance. Over time these can bulge, especially with really
high, heavy braking, and that gives you a squish in your pedal where you shouldn’t have one. So to correct that, most Big Brake Kits, including this Wilwood kit,
come with stainless steel lines. – Once you got your other line in place, you break lose the OEM hard line with the line wrench right here, and then as quickly as possible you’re gonna shove it back on. So the reason I leave
the old line in there is because it’s good to
have reference points. If this line actually goes on the front, it could be too long and
then it could get tangled in some of the working
suspension components, causing some pretty bad
or catastrophic failures. – All right, so we got
all the brakes installed, all the lines on, we’re
ready to put our new fluid in and bleed ’em. – [Aaron] So since we
changed the brake lines, you’re gonna have to bleed the brakes. – Yeah, ’cause all that
brake fluid you saw drippin’ out of the lines has
to be replaced by something and that something is usually air. Every time I press the brake, Aaron’s gonna be releasing
air from the system. We do that on all four
corners and then our system will be free of air and
we can drive this thing. – We don’t have a bleeder here in the shop so I went ahead and made one out of a can and a clear tube that we
had here just lyin’ around. And we’re tight. That should be it. How does it feel? – Ah, dude, it’s like… It’s so solid. It’s like, yeah, I shouldn’t be jammin’
it like that, should I? (funky music) – [James] After your new pads
and rotors are installed, you’re still not done. You have to bed in the brakes. – Oh no. Here we go. – [James] Start at 60 miles an hour and lightly press on your
brakes to get them up to temp. Then get back up to 60 and
stand on the brakes hard down to around 10 miles per. – Oh wow.
– That’s better. – Wow, that was really great. – [James] Then get back up to 60 and do it again about 10 times. – Oh hell yeah, dude. – Wow.
– This thing frickin’ gets down. – Your brake rotors and
pads are gonna get super hot and smell, just like Nolan. If you don’t bed in your brakes, you run the risk of having
uneven pad deposition, which makes your rotors
feel like they’re warped. (funk music) Well Nolan’s out there
racing S Chassis already. – Makin’ friends.
– Makin’ friends. He’s already part of the JDM community. – This might be another con. Your time. – Yeah, for sure.
– If you wanna go out and hang out with your friends,
maybe don’t do big jobs. But hey, we made it through,
we’re almost to the other side, we’ll be out there
makin’ friends very soon. – Yeah, we’re gonna be
out there making friends. (hiphop music) – [James] So for the test we
did the same 60 to zero test from the last episode to see
if there’s any improvement in stopping distance. – Ah, the brakes feel really good, I’m super impressed with how they work. I mean, who knew it only took
some more aggressive pads and a little better rotors, man? – [James] The main advantage
of upgrading your brakes is not a shorter stopping distance. The main advantage is
resisting brake fade. Brake fade is when your brakes get so hot that they become less effective
or even fail completely. – These brakes are definitely
gonna fade quicker than those. – So their brakes literally
cost 10 times more, but I don’t think they’re
gonna perform 10 times better. – [James] So we ran the 60 to zero test over and over and over to
put as much heat and stress on our new brakes to see how they affected the stopping distance of each car. (hiphop music) – [Man] Oh, you guys– (laughs) Oh, you got him, you got him,
you got him, you got him. – They definitely faded but I don’t know, these are the worst circumstances
you can throw at brakes and they were pretty damn consistent. So for what we paid,
yeah, you can’t really be disappointed.
– Yeah, can’t be mad about these. – Look at Nolan’s. First. Second. Third. Fourth. Fifth is down here. And then it got kinda
consistent I guess after awhile and well you saw what
happened on the last one. – So with our 60 to zero test
we were able to shave off about five feet from the stock brakes. Which only goes to show
that upgrading your brakes doesn’t really make you stop sooner. – Which is why we also
did an endurance test. – One marker, pretty consistently
after about five laps, and then on the sixth lap
Aaron stood on the brake and we stopped like 10
feet past, we’re like, oh, it’s about to happen. And then a couple laps
later we caught on fire. So when they go, they go. We had to replace the pads
after that torture test ’cause we completely dusted ’em. – High car did not catch on fire. – Nope.
– The brakes barely faded at all. – All right, so does more
expensive mean more better, James? – Absolutely! In this case 1,000%! – So yeah, obviously
the Wilwoods are better. – Way better. – Way better, I mean– – I wanna acknowledge the aesthetic gains from those big brakes. We had some really cool
wheels on the high car, but seeing those big old
beefy boys behind it, it’s like, oh man, that
dude knows what’s up. One negative about the Big
Brake Kit is you can’t do it and keep your stock wheels. It’s just one more thing to consider. So Nolan, which brake kit would you buy? – The Wilwoods are too expensive. They’re so, so good, but
that’s too much money. Honestly, just the rotors, pads,
and the steel braided lines on my car made a big difference and I don’t feel bad about saying that I wouldn’t get
the more expensive one. – If this episode gets 10 million views, we’ll give Nolan a raise so he can start answering
the would you buy it question a little bit more honestly. (laughs)
– No, this is honestly. I don’t have any money to buy this (beep). You don’t either, so. – Nolan’s like, I wouldn’t buy lunch! – So I would go with
the cheaper brake kit, the low kit, if you will. – Solid upgrade, solid, solid upgrade. – The high car is now,
right in this episode, is where the disparity really
starts to become apparent. I mean, they’re two different cars now. – Right now we have way
more tire and way more brake than we do power. So you can just drive
the piss outta that thing and stay outta trouble. – And you’re fine.
– It’s so fun to drive right now. I can’t wait ’til we
ruin it with more power. (laughing) More power, baby! In the next episode, we’re
gonna see what’s the difference. A nice aftermarket LSD, or– – Or welding your differential together. – If you haven’t seen the first
two episodes of this show, make sure you go watch ’em. We did wheels and tires and coilovers. Make sure to tune in every Monday for the next however many Mondays. If you like this, send it to your friend. If you hate it, send it
anyway, it doesn’t matter. Follow Donut @donutmedia for
all that sweet, sweet BTS and the dankest memes
in the automotive world! I love you. – Be nice. See you next time. We can’t nail this. – [James] You start, you said be nice. – All right. Be nice. – I love you. – See you next time. (funky music)

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100 thoughts on “$450 Brakes vs $4,500 Brakes | HiLow

  1. So for the rotors I never knew you had to do bed in the brakes and I’ve definitely noticed that warped brake feeling especially when the brakes get hot it’s not noticeable at all but would new pads fix that is the rotors that suffered

  2. Can you do this test again but put race pads on budget build? It'll handle the heat better and a true budget mechanic swaps pads on track days

  3. Just my .02, if your vehicle is a track day car and not a race car, IMO it's not really worth it to get a big brake kit. Most of the increase in performance is in the pad material and rotor design. Also, flushing out your DOT-3 brake system with DOT-4 fluid and replacing the rubber end lines with braided stainless gets rid of most of the fade associated with rubber lines balooning.
    Will the big brake kit be better than a brake upgrade it? Of course. More contact surface area = more available friction for a given coefficient of friction.
    IMPORTANT DISTICTION: the big brake kit seen in this video is a FLOATING ROTOR setup, which is arguably much better than a standard rotor because the rotor doesn't dissipate heat into the hub as quickly. Heat in the hub leads to premature wear on you hub/spindle bearings.
    Do you NEED the big brake kit? Unless your car weighs more than 3500 lbs and has to brake after continuous high-speed sections, probably not. Getting a pad with a better coefficient of friction and a rotor with better heat dissipation capabilities will help you out much more than you think.
    Last caveat: I've ran into issues with cross-drilled rotors cracking before, which is why I go for slotted rotors exclusively now. You can do whatever you desire; just thought I'd throw that little tidbit out here in case someone was wondering.

    Edit: I say this because although big brake kits are better performers, it's worthwhile to be cost-conscious when setting up a vehicle for the track. Less money spent on a brake system leaves more money for more trackdays.
    source: results of modification on my own IS250 (not a 'fast' car, but a fun car to drive fast.)

  4. Wasn’t that the same 350z caranddriver crashed because the stock brakes failed? I thought Nissan aggressively pursued fuel economy by restricting airflow to the brake ducts

  5. If you think willwood is expensive. Try Mercedes carbon ceramic kit they put in the new Amg’s lol easily $15000 brake package

  6. This is nonsense. The difference in parts and prices are too great. Example…Like for tires put Firestone Firehawks against Some Sportcups. Not a super shitty $80 tire against Sportcup 2’s in the highest rating obtainable. We already what’s going to happen. Pick the best eBay turbo that’s claims to have it all and put it up against a mid level name brand that makes some similar claims. This thing y’all doing is way too predictable and pretty boring to be honest. I’ve been subbing for a few years it seems so I’m not used to being bored with y’all.

  7. Testing brakes fading capability with dead stops it doesn't make much sense 🙁 my car has EBC premium disc with blue stuff pads and they perform excellent, pretty much one of the best OEM+ choice.

  8. That multi piston caliper is what blows the other one out of the water, nolan should really have opted for a caliper upgrade

  9. I kind of feel like it should be "does more expense mean more impressive?". Not exactly a fitting sentence, but "more better" still makes me cringe despite being grammatically okay.

  10. It's very simple don't buy crap parts. Aftermarket parts can be very good . If they got Japanese parts which are better then oem but dont cost like cheap beater then this test would of gone differently

  11. @Donut Media. Add oil coolers to the cars. Z1 Motorsports do a nice Setrab kit. Also there’s probably the OEM Nismo ones, or more expensive kits. A MUST HAVE if you plan to track or race the Zcars. Otherwise you go into “limp mode” when the oil temp gets too high. Embarrassing and you might trash the engine if you have a lead foot.

  12. Hallo meine süßen Northeimer Grillficker, ich bin der Manni, und ich donnere gerne ordentliche Lackwurstberger durch den Dachstrumpf. Fröhliches Ostereierinserat, meine lieben Schrottflötenmusikanten.

  13. The caliper falling on the ground is funny. Ha ha ha, ha ha ha, ha ha ha. So damn hilarious. Revenge of the nerds autoshop.

  14. I would go with slightly CHEAP brakes. (a little more expensive than dirt cheap)
    And, I would try them on a track without too many people or a long parking lot over and over again just like you guys.
    Brakes are… safety. Also, with tires and suspension, brakes help shed major times on a track ^^

  15. Juss' something… you guys should have put some brake jokes in your phone caliper bit. Those Willwood 10 lines felt a little cheap 😉

  16. My 2012 Mercedes-Benz CLS63 AMG Carbon Ceramic Brakes (Brembo) with 16", 6 pistons caliper fronts have phenomenal performance, but they're sooooooooooo expensive lol #sadface

  17. So when you buy the car, get bad ass coilovers, wheels and tires, better breaks, aftermarket lsd, and maybe a big turbo with remap? But that would require a lot more work, mainly the cooling. So after all that, you get a 30-40k dollars car that is anything but stock an reliability is just out the window. Why not get a pre owned C63 for that much money?

  18. LAMBO CARBON BRAKES on Ebay Selling for $8000 EACH !!!!!!!!!! OUCH
    1996 Impala CALLAWAY SS with BREMBO 2 Piece Rotors STEEL with ALUMINUM HAT were $ 3000 Pair back in the DAY

  19. While I'm running rotors and pads for a total of 33€ from eBay and no matter how hard I pushed that car down very long and curvy mountain passes I simply couldn't warp them . After running them 1 1/2 years I really wanted to trash them to show myself that these were bad and I only bought them because I had no other option at that point but I simply couldn't manage hit. No matter how late I was braking. Just slightly melted my hubcaps. Yes this is not comparable, as you're driving a sports car and not a daily driver hatchback with a 1.6 N/A engine and an automatic gearbox.
    Just shared my personal experience.
    Wish you all the best

  20. I would rather buy some Tarox Brakes from Europe. Their methodology is that instead of making brakes like Brembo, where you have 4 or 6 HUGE pots in the caliper, you end up with more smaller pots/pistons inside which reduce heat fatigue. There was a video where they tested said brakes on an STI for the Nurburgring…. and sure enough because of the increased stopping power, and less brake fade, they set a better time because the brakes did not heat up as bad as the stock STI Brembo does…. insane results.

    On the idea of bedding, I can't even BEGIN to go into detail on this. I had so many fellow mechanics just install brakes and then let the customer go without bedding them in. I would always go out for a drive to bed them in. I would do 40-0, then 60-0, then 60-0, and generally by that time, the brakes are hot as hell, smell like fuck, but work properly. I have never had a customer complaint. And I have always had my salesmen tell them that if they smell something foul, its the brakes from said bedding process. I have never had a comeback ever. And with where I had worked, if I had a comeback, I would not hear the end of it…. because they don't let that shit fly. Meanwhile I saw mechanics come and go, all whom had comebacks. I used to get pissed because to keep the shop "fair" they would get work they couldn't handle because it was "their turn" in the rotation, and I would always end up doing the comeback work. Luckily, I still got paid for said comeback.

  21. Did you guys use the stock brake fluid? Or used a higher grade? With a higher grade, you increase the fluids boiling point. Every little bit helps.

  22. I upgraded to the nismo BBk and it was one of the best investment on my Z, the car braked sooo much better, with more stopping power and almost no fade, i totally recommend a BBK with some yellow stuff pads

  23. Do your breaks affect areo dynamics in a good or bad way if u have break vents that go into the tunnel I guess take a car to a wind tunnel with breaks on and or off and see if it is more areo dynamic with or without breaks

  24. Can you guys tell me what the different between wilwood and brembo brake kit. cause i live in SEA and i think brembo are more popular than wilwood like america.

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