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Jeep Wrangler JK M.O.R.E. Oil/Transmission Skid Plate Review & Install

Jeep Wrangler JK M.O.R.E. Oil/Transmission Skid Plate Review & Install

Hey, what’s up, guys. Ryan here from ExtremeTerrain. And today, I’m here with the M.O.R.E. M-O-R-E Transmission and Oil Pan Skid Plate
fitting your 2007 to 2018 Jeep Wrangler JK. Now, this is going to be for those of you
Jeep owners that are off-roading enthusiast rock crawlers and are looking for some serious
underneath protection for your rig. Now, this is going to fit both the 3.8-liter
and the 3.6-liter models as well as the four-door and the two-door. So, whatever setup you have, this bad boy
is gonna bolt right on. Now, as far as prices are concerned, this
is coming in right around $300 which I think is pretty reasonable considering what you’re
getting. This is a very high-quality item and you really
get what you pay for. There are some cheaper options out there on
the website and they do have some flaws whether it’s just fitment issues, two-piece design,
so on and so forth. So, overall, this is a very high-quality product
and it’s really gonna stand up to all the abuse that you wanna subject and put it through. Now, as far as install goes, it’s a relatively
simple install. There is some minor drilling. I’m gonna give it a one out of three wrenches
on the difficulty meter, but overall, you can get this thing installed in about an hour. Now, if you do have the optional transmission
plate, that’s relatively light-duty and it’s really not gonna hold up when you’re dragging
your Jeep over the rocks. Now, skid plates are a great upgrade and this
is a great addition to your Wrangler for a couple of reasons. This is gonna add a ton of protection underneath
where it’s very vulnerable and it’s gonna give you that peace of mind to go that extra
step, drive over that extra obstacle and know that you’re not gonna ruin your entire day. Now, the underbelly of your Jeep is a very
susceptible area to damage. You have a ton of thin sheet metal pans under
there and if you were to come down on a rock, punch through that thing, it’s gonna end your
day and it’s gonna ruin your whole trip, bring it to a stop. This skid plate is gonna provide plenty of
protection for the engine transmission and even that exhaust crossover. Installation is relatively simple for this
and the one thing that I like about this is this is a frame-mounted skid plate. So, this is gonna attach to your motor mount
frame mount brackets and it’s also going to attach to the crossover that’s gonna provide
full underneath protection for anything that you may drag yourself over. And one thing that I would like to mention,
this is not compatible with diesel model Jeeps, this only works for the gasers. Talking about this skid plate, this is a very
nice skid plate. Obviously, this is a one-piece design and
that’s what I really like about this. There’s no real seams or anything like that
that you’re gonna get stuck on, hung up on, and there’s a couple other things that I really
like about this as well. Now, this thing is made from 3/16-inch steel,
it’s a one-piece design, and it’s a very nice design. You have these rolled edges and you even have
these supports in here that’s gonna make this a very strong skid plate and a very nice design. This thing is gonna stay tucked up nice and
neat and it’s gonna give you plenty of clearance. Some of the issues with aftermarket skid plates
is going to be the width of them, they’re gonna run in the driveshaft and under that
full flex. And you’re not gonna have this issue with
this particular skid plate. Now, this has a hole cut in it. One of the issues with having a skip plate
under there, of course, is going to be changing that oil. This has a nice hole cut in there that’s gonna
allow you to access that bolt in the oil pan, pull that out, change your oil. You’re not gonna make a huge mess. And one big thing is you’re not gonna have
to take this back off to change your oil. Now, this whole pan is gonna stay very nice
and tight tucked up in there, but it’s still gonna give you plenty of clearance. Your exhaust crossover is gonna be right about
here and one of the things is collecting crap on top of this when you’re out there on the
trails. Now, this has some very nice drain holes so
anything that you may slosh up in here, that’s just gonna drain back out, it’s also gonna
give you a very nice point where you can wash this thing out that way that crossover tube
isn’t gonna catch anything you get caught up here on fire. This pan is a completely bolt-on kit. It comes with everything brand new, it comes
with brackets, and even fits around the transfer case skid plate. And the whole thing is coated in a textured
black powder coating. And of course, that’s just gonna add to the
rugged good looks of it, it’s also gonna protect your investment from the elements providing
a little bit of extra corrosion protection when you’re dragging this thing on the rocks. So, with that being said, let’s show you how
to get this installed and what it looks like on the Jeep. Tools we used for this install: Pry bar, safety
glasses, safety gloves, 19-millimeter socket, 18-millimeter socket, 5/16 Allen, 3/8 drive
impact, 3/8 drive extension, 3/8 drive ratchet, 18-millimeter wrench, 19-millimeter wrench. Other tools that you’ll need: A torque wrench. All right, guys. So, the first thing you need to do if you
do have that optional skid plate, you need to take that off. We’re just gonna jump right into the install. First thing we’re gonna do we’re gonna start
loosening up some bolts so we can get our brackets on. Now, over here on the driver’s side, we’re
gonna have to loosen up this long shish kabob bolt for our motor mount. So, you’re gonna take an 18-millimeter wrench,
18-millimeter socket. So, we’re gonna back that nut off just a little
bit that way we can slide our bracket underneath. So, it would be a good idea to spray these
threads with just a little bit of rust busting lubricant. And you should take a dead blow hammer, that’s
just gonna be a mallet like this. Gonna slide that bolt back a little bit. If you use a regular hammer, I would back
the nut all the way off so it’s flush with the threads. That way you don’t mess up the end of the
bolt. The brackets are pretty thick. So, we want that bolt sticking out about a
quarter of an inch. All right. So, now that we have that sticking out, next
thing we’re gonna do, we’re actually gonna drive a bolt through this hole right here. So, I’m gonna go grab some of that hardware
and then we’ll do that. All right. So, we’re gonna take the half-inch by one-inch
bolt that they give us, this is gonna be the shortest bolt you get, just a standard hex
head, you’re gonna put a flat washer on there and what we need to do we need to drop it
into that hole. All right. So, next, you’re gonna take your bracket. Now, these, you wanna face them towards the
inside of the vehicle, honestly they’re only gonna go on one way so you’ve got a 50-50%
chance. What we wanna do we wanna slide it up on top
of that. So, you want it inside of the washer on that
shish kabob, then we want that other bolt to drop through. After that, we’re gonna put a flat washer
on there. So, we’re gonna do another flat washer then
we’re gonna do a nut. So, we’ll get that just like that. Now, we’re gonna leave that loose and we’ll
go get the other side installed. So, we’re gonna do the same thing on the other
side. This bolt is gonna be facing the opposite
way. So, all I have to do is loosen up that nut,
back it off a little bit, then we’ll drop that other bolt through. All right, guys. So, for the passenger side, what you wanna
do is just take a pry bar and just go in between the actual bracket and the motor mount. Just have someone push on it a little bit
and that’s gonna allow you to get that bolt in. After that, we’re gonna hang the bracket. Slide that underneath, drop that bolt down
through and then same thing, we’re gonna do a flat washer and then we’re gonna do one
of the provided nuts. All right, guys. So, next thing we’re gonna do, we’re gonna
install the skid plate. This is pretty heavy so I’m actually gonna
get a friend to help me hold this up while I get this first bolt started. So, the first hole we’re gonna start with
is right here in this crossmember. You’re gonna take the longest bolt that they
give you in the kit and you’re gonna use this little skid washer right here. So, we’re just gonna get that started in this
pre-threaded hole. Once you get it started, you can take a 3/4-inch
socket. All right. So, then we’re gonna go back up to the front. We wanna get these brackets situated that
way it holds the front of the skid plate. So, you’re gonna use the carriage bolts that
they give you. These are gonna go through the inside out
because that’s where the square is. On the outside, we’re gonna do a flat washer
then we’ll do another nut. And we’re gonna leave those loose, we’ll get
the other side installed. So, same thing goes for the other side. We’re gonna use that carriage bolt. Just wanna drop it through, line up the square
head with the square hole, flat washer and then a nut. And now that’s pretty much gonna set the front
in place. So, what we’re actually gonna do, we’re gonna
go to the back and we’re gonna drill some holes. So, going back to the backside of the skid
plate, we’re gonna have two bolt holes left in the skid plate. This one over here on the driver side, we
actually have a hole in this crossmember here. If you don’t have that hole, you’ll need to
drill it with a half-inch drill bit. We’re gonna take the last two button head
bolts that we have that are Allen keys. We’re gonna put a flat washer on those, they’re
gonna go up through the bottom. Inside, we’re gonna do another flat washer
and then we’re gonna do a nut. So, we got that one in. What we’re gonna do we’re just going to mark
and drill the other hole. So, on the passenger side, we need to drill
through here and through the frame rail. So, we have a half-inch drill bit, a drill,
of course, you wanna put your safety gloves on and your safety glasses. Last thing you wanna do is get metal in your
eye. We’re just gonna go up through this hole and
just drill all the way through. Then you wanna get all the metal shavings
off of you, clean yourself off, then we’ll put the rest of the hardware in. All right. So, after you drill that hole, of course,
you wanna paint that bare metal. So, you can just spray it with some spray
paint or you can just get a brush up in there and brush it. After that, same thing, we’re gonna use that
button head bolt, flat washer on it, it’s gonna go up through that hole. So, now that we have this whole thing installed,
we’re gonna go and tighten everything up. We’re gonna start up here at the front motor
mounts and we’re going to tighten up the bolts that hold this bracket in place. So, you wanna make sure that this bracket
is flush with this other bracket, there’s no gap in there. And we’re gonna tighten up that motor mount
bolt first. So, we use an 18-millimeter socket on one
side and that wrench on the other side and we’ll tighten that up. So, once you get that bolt tight, we’re gonna
torque it to 45-foot pounds and then we’re gonna tighten up this other bolt. Now, to tighten up this new bolt, you’ll need
a 19-millimeter wrench and a 19-millimeter socket. And then after that, we’ll do the same thing
on the other side. All right. So, next, we’re gonna tighten up where this
skid plate attaches to these brackets. So, you’re not gonna need a tool to hold the
inside because it’s a carriage bolt, it’s gonna hold itself. So, we’ll just use a 19-millimeter socket
to tighten up the outside. And make sure that you press the skid plate
up, get it in position. Go over the other side, do that same thing. So, we’re gonna go to the back, we’re gonna
tighten up those last three bolts. We’re going to start in the middle tightening
up that one with the skid washer. Now, you can use a 19-millimeter, 3/4, whatever
you have. After that, we’re gonna switch bits. We’re gonna go over to a 5/16 Allen, we’re
gonna grab a 19-millimeter wrench again, we’re gonna tighten up these two end bolts. All we gotta do is tighten up this last one. All right, guys. So, now that we have this thing fully tightened
up, that is going to wrap it up for the review and install. There is one last thing that I would like
to mention. This thing comes powder coated, but when you
go out there on the trails, if you scratch some of that powder coating off, just paint
it. You can get a can Rust-Oleum, black Rust-Oleum,
it’s very cheap. All you wanna do is just cover up as bare
metal spots, keep this thing from rusting. However, like I said, this is gonna wrap it
up for the review and install. For more videos and products like this, keep
it right here at

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1 thought on “Jeep Wrangler JK M.O.R.E. Oil/Transmission Skid Plate Review & Install

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