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Jeep Wrangler JL Smittybilt XRC Gen2 Rear Bumper Review & Install

Jeep Wrangler JL Smittybilt XRC Gen2 Rear Bumper Review & Install

Hey, guys. Today I’m here with the Smittybilt XRC Gen2
Rear Bumper, fitting all 2018 and newer JL Wranglers. So, if you’re looking for a fully capable
and fully functional rear bumper to compliment the rear end of your Wrangler, this option
by Smittybilt is gonna be a perfect one to take a look into. This is gonna come with a number of different
benefits offering all of that functionality that I just mentioned. So, with this, you are getting a couple of
recovery points including a tow hitch, you are getting integrated jack mounts, and, not
to mention, some very aggressive styling. It’s gonna match with any heavy-duty front
bumper or any heavy-duty armor that you pair with it. So this is gonna be roughly $700 making this
a more expensive option. However, this does come with a lot of features
and a lot of functionality with it. So it does fit very well in that price range
when you take a deeper look into it. So, other less expensive options on the page
are usually gonna be for more basic bumpers. They are gonna have some of those standard
features, but they’re not necessarily going to include a full relocation bracket, they
may not include these slip pads on the side, or integrated jack mounts. So I definitely think, if you’re looking for
something that has all the bells and whistles and you’re not necessarily concerned about
a budget-friendly option, then this is a good choice to take a look into. So, install is gonna be a two out of three
wrenches on the difficulty meter, you are gonna need about two hours worth of your time
with some basic hand tools. So, speaking of the install, let’s jump into
that now. The tools that I used for my install were
a half-inch drive, 3/8th-inch drive, and 1/4-inch drive ratchet, 3-inch extension, a 21, 19,
18, 16, 10, and 8-millimeter socket, a 5/32nd-inch Allen key, a Philips head screwdriver, an
8-millimeter wrench, trim removal tool, and an impact wrench. So, to kick off this install, you’re gonna
need an 8-millimeter socket and a ratchet and we’re gonna head inside our rear wheel
well to take off some trim pieces. So, what we need to do is take off this lower
trim piece inside our wheel well so we can access our rear bumper bolts. You’re gonna need an 8-millimeter socket and
we can remove the three bolts that are holding in this trim piece. You’re gonna have one towards the outside,
and then you’re gonna have two on the inside. So, after all three of those are removed,
we can slide out this trim piece. And, as you can see, we can access our rear
bumper. So you’re also gonna do that on the other
side. So, now, with the 16-millimeter socket and
a 3-inch extension, I’m gonna take off these two bolts that are on the inside of the bracket
that are connected to our bumper and not the bolts that are connected to our frame. We’ll go ahead and remove those after our
bumper is off. But first, we wanna disconnect our bumper
fully. Now we can repeat that same process on the
other side. So now we can take off the two bolts on the
primary bracket that’s holding on our bumper. It’s going to be the same 16-millimeter socket. I wouldn’t recommend an extension here because
you’re not gonna have a lot of room. Also, it’s gonna be a little bit difficult
to see, but there is going to be a bolt right above this bottom bolt. Then you go ahead and remove those. So, while we’re over here, we can also disconnect
our harness before we fully remove our bumper. So you’re gonna need a trim removal tool. So, this is gonna be a little bit difficult
to see. You do have a harness that’s connected to
the body of the Jeep and to the bumper, this is gonna be for the lights on your rear bumper. So, what we’re gonna do is just take a trim
removal tool and remove that harness from the body. So, once that harness is off of there, we
can disconnect this clip. So now our bumper is free from this harness
that was connected to our body. Now we can go to the other side and take off
the other primary bracket bolts. So, with our 16-millimeter socket, we can
remove this primary bracket. So, now that everything is disconnected, we
can fully remove our rear bumper. So now, in order to fully install our new
rear bumper, we do have to remove these brackets. So, I’m gonna be using a 16-millimeter socket
to remove our secondary bracket from our frame. Now, this is a lot easier to do with the bumper
off of the Jeep, and that’s why I took the bumper off first. So, after this bracket is off, we can move
to our tow hook and our primary bracket. I’m gonna be using a 21-millimeter socket
in order to remove those four bolts that are holding in the bracket and our tow hook. So you’re gonna have two on the side and then you’re gonna have two on the bottom. Then you can repeat that process on the other
side. So, on your passenger side, you’re only gonna
have two bolts since we only have one tow hook. So, before I go ahead and install this, I
did wanna show you guys, side-by-side next to your stock bumper, to show you all the
benefits that you’re gonna get out of the new XRC Gen2 rear bumper. So, right off the bat, you can tell that it
is the similar length to your factory rear bumper, it is gonna have these wraparound
sides. However, these sides are going to be angled
up for better departure angles and better clearance off-road. Now, this is also gonna be a lot more durable,
made of 3/16-inch cold rolled steel in comparison to your factory plastic that’s not gonna be
able to take a hit on the trail, and it’s also gonna be protected by a black textured
powder coat finish. So, that’s gonna give a more aggressive look
than the factory plastic, but it’s also gonna protect that steel underneath from any rust
or corrosion. Now, you do also have a ton of little goodies
on this new rear bumper in comparison to your factory one that are gonna benefit you while
you’re off-road as well as just benefit you at all times. Now, first off, you do have a couple of recovery
points, you have two D-ring mounts on either side, you’re also gonna have a tow hitch in
the middle that’s also gonna have integrated jack points. Now, you are getting PP and TPO slip strips
on the outside, which is something that you don’t see out of a lot of rear bumpers. This is gonna help with extra damage protection
while you’re out on the trail. So, what I do also like about this rear bumper
is that you’re also getting 6-inch LED strips, you’re gonna get two on each side. This is gonna help you out with some rear
visibility. Whenever you need it, you can wire them into
your factory reverse lights, or you can use the supplied switch that is with the wiring
harness here and everything is plug-and-play. So this is also going to come with the option
to swap over your factory backup sensors which is a bonus there for you guys that have that
option on your Wrangler. Now, it also is just gonna look a lot more
aggressive than the factory plastic and you do even get some plating up top for some extra
styling. So, enough about these two side-by-side, let’s
go and bolt up our new one. So, before I go ahead and show you how this
bumper is installed, we do need to install our LED lights. You’re gonna be provided two 6-inch LEDs for
either side of your bumper, and you’re also gonna have brackets that are going to hold
up your LEDs. We’re gonna go ahead and install them on the
lower portion on the middle of our bumper. So let’s go ahead and do that now. You’re gonna need a 10-millimeter socket and
a ratchet. So, in order to install our lights, we do
need to remove our posts on the back here. You’re gonna need a 10-millimeter deep socket. We’re gonna go ahead and remove those from
the light body. So, once those are removed, we can place the
light through our U-bracket here and reinstall our post through our bracket. So, once those are on there, we can take our
flat washer and our nylon lock nuts and thread those on. Then making sure our flat washers are on the
outside of our bumper post, we can install our U-bracket. So, the U-bracket is going to go on the inside
of the bumper bracket but the flat washers are gonna go on the outside. And what I do like about this, in comparison
to the JK model of the XRC Gen2 rear bumper, is that you’re able to angle these and they
are on the bottom here instead of the top. So, what we’re gonna go ahead and do is just
tighten those down, making sure that they’re angled properly. So we’re going to evenly tighten those down
with the same 10-millimeter socket. So, after our one light is on, you can repeat
that process on the other side. Now, if you ever need to go ahead and adjust
these, all you have to do is loosen these nuts on the outside here, angle wherever you
need your light to go, and then just re-tighten them down. Once those are tight and snugged up, we can
go ahead and install our rear bumper. So, I would like to mention, if you do have
an oversized tire, it is gonna be a little bit tricky to get this on here as it is very
heavy. So, now I’m going to have a friend help me
mount this up and we’re gonna use our factory hardware to mount this to the outside of our
frame board. So, what we’re gonna do now is attach our
bumper to the middle of our frame. You’re going to get four long bolts. These are gonna go through the frame and through
the bumper. You may have to actually lift the bumper in
order to get that through. Looks like everything is good on the other
side, and then you are gonna get a welded nut plate for either side. We are going to stick that up behind the bumper
and then you’re gonna thread that in through the welded nut plate. I’m gonna repeat that process for the other
one. So, once you have both of those threaded in,
you can do the same thing on the other side. So, with the help of a friend, you may want
to push the bumper up and tightened down one bolt to make sure that it stays in place and
is level. So, once you have it level, as you can tell,
I tightened down one bolt, we’re just gonna go tighten down the rest of them. I’m using an 18-millimeter socket and a 3/8ths-inch
drive ratchet in order to do that. So, once you have your frame bolts tightened
down, we can move to the outer side of the frame and tighten down our factory hardware. So now, with our 21-millimeter socket, we
can go ahead and tighten up these outer factory bolts. Same thing on the other side. What we’re gonna do now is start at our engine
bay and work our wiring back so we can wire up our LED lights in our bumper. Now, I’m going to start with our leads here. I am going to connect our negative lead to
our negative battery terminal. I’m using a 10-millimeter socket in order
to remove this accessory bolt here. All right. Then we can move to the power. You will have to, if you are using Smittybilt’s
wiring harness, you will have to add a terminal connector. So, I’m just going to take one of the accessory
nuts off and then go ahead and connect our positive wire. So, now we can put our cover back on and move
towards that side. We are going to pull our wiring through our
firewall. You’ll also be provided with zip ties to clean
up all of this. So, what I’m gonna do is grab a flathead screwdriver. There will be an access port over on the side
of your master cylinder. I’m just gonna pop this trim piece off. So, once you have that plastic piece next
to your master cylinder off, we can feed all of our wires through there. So, just as a visual, this is what it’s gonna
look like. Now, what you can do is disconnect your actual
leads to your lights from your wiring harness. We can put the light leads aside, so you’re
not putting a bunch of wires through this, and you can disconnect it on the other side. It’s gonna make it a little bit easier. So, after you’ve run all of your wires into
your cab area through your firewall, we can come back to the tailgate here. I’ve opened up our little compartment and
we are gonna go through our drain plug right above our exhaust. That’s gonna be the most accessible place. So, there are a ton of different ways that
you can wire this up. However, this is the easiest way that we have
found. So, what I’m gonna do is just take off our
storage compartment here. This is just gonna be this trim piece. I’m gonna put that aside. And then you’ll see your drain plug down in
the compartment there where your jack would be. So, what we can do is take a flathead screwdriver
and just pop out our drain plug here, put that aside, and we can route our wires down
through our drain plug. So, after we have those through our drain
plug, we can go ahead and clip them into our lights. So, now we can just plug in our leads. So, after those are connected, you can go
back and clean everything up. You are provided with zip ties like I said,
again, however, those should be wired up. You definitely wanna keep that away from your
exhaust there. So I would zip tie those as soon as possible. So, now that we’re finished with the bumper
wiring, I’m gonna throw our tire back on here and we are going to bolt up our license plate
relocation bracket. So, what you’re gonna wanna do is install
your bottom lug nut and then Smittybilt will provide you with two top lug nuts to bolt
up your relocation bracket. So, what we’re gonna do now is install our
top lug nuts. And, as you can tell, these have a thread
on the lug nut stud portion, but they also have a thread on the front, that’s what we’re
gonna bolt into. So, once those are threaded on, we can take
a 19-millimeter socket and go ahead and tighten those up. After those are on there, we can take our
new bracket and our provided hardware and we’re gonna thread that into our new lug nuts. Then we can take a 21-millimeter socket and
tighten those down. Now, with our provided hardware, we can set
our primary bracket on top and secure that down. So, this is gonna be the two smaller stainless
button head bolts. Now we can take a 5/32nd-inch Allen key and
tighten those down. Those are gonna thread into this bracket down
here. So, Smittybilt is also gonna provide you with
a license plate light since it is mandatory in all states that you have one. So you will be able to wire this into your
factory wiring harness down where we disconnected it before. Also gonna come with provided hardware. So you can grab an 8-millimeter wrench or
an 8-millimeter socket and a Phillips head screwdriver and you can tighten that down. So, that’s gonna wrap it up from my review
and install. Make sure you like and subscribe. And for more videos like this, always keep
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14 thoughts on “Jeep Wrangler JL Smittybilt XRC Gen2 Rear Bumper Review & Install

  1. Shop This Smittybilt XRC Gen2 Bumper:

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  2. seems like the b/up camera is totally blocked not sure how that makes sense, also seems like it would be a ton of extra work to get the spare off if you needed it, maybe can live w/that but not loosing the cam egads seems if they left a spot for it in the bumper like jeep would be ok

  3. Every other comment is about the backup camera. So is this one. I can't even imagine giving up that functionality simply for a new bumper. The customer pics on the website show that every buyer had to find their own way to mount their plate without losing the backup camera. It makes no sense to force customers to come up with their own solution for poor engineering from Smittybilt.

  4. I really like the look and functionality of the bumper. I modified the license plate/light bracket and mounted it on the left end of the bumper. Smittybilt should work towards that as well. Reduces the amount of work to remove the spare tire.

  5. another rear JK bumper with the holes moved to use it on a JL no thanks till they make a bumper with a License plate holder on the bumper and a light for it mounted i guess i will stick with my plastic bumper or look at that MOPAR steel rear bumper. its only 50-100 more then this.

  6. I have this on my Jeep, great sturdy bumper. Would highly recommend. Thing is a monster and is a straight forward install. One afternoon, basic hand tools, and a six pack of your favorite cold one will make for a great day.

  7. You do not have to install the license plate bracket like that. You can literally just flip it over and install it so that it doesn't block. Don't know why they would show it this way, or at least mention it.

  8. 700? You outta your mind?!, everyone say your bumper and armor is designed to take hits and protect the body. But if the bumper gets bent or dented it still need to be replaced. Im not spending 700 on just the rear when i get something cheaper elsewhere that i wont mind swapping out for less than 300, and it comes with more led lights

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