Restoring and Detailing A 270,000 Mile Car – Part 1

Restoring and Detailing A 270,000 Mile Car - Part 1

hey guys hello and welcome this is my dad's 2001 Vauxhall Astra it's kibbutz 270,000 miles and has never had a detail in its life and as you can see every Pamela's scuffed scratched dirty or faded and this car really looks like it's been to the moon so in this video I'm going to try to make the old girl look a little bit more respectable and try to put a little bit more life back into her now I'm not going to go the whole nine yards hell no highlights but I do think of a few hours elbow grease we can make this car look a lot better than the common three toes firstly if I touch the bodywork I had to do something about those faded headlights so using a few easy to acquire items I decided to restore them myself I started off spraying the lights with a spray bottle filled dish soap and went in horizontal motions across the lights with 800 grit sandpaper I then divide the lights antennae death be mom this allows me to say that I've covered 100% of the lights in horizontal scratches then I repeated the same method of 1500 grit paper but this time I went to vertical motions to erase the scratches left by Daytona grit sandpaper this time all the lines should be running vertical finally I repeated a procedure for a final time using 2500 grit sandpaper and going back to horizontal motions now it was also using a polishing compounds I used also Grimm paints renovator this is finer than the 2500 grit sandpaper and you should really start seeing the difference after this step this time go in circular motions and then buff the light off when finished take a look at this comparison the left is after the paints renovate has been used and the right is after using 2500 grit sandpaper what a massive difference of makes now on to a final restoration step in this is using car polish and using super resin polish by also glim this is finer than the paints renovator and should leave the light crystal clear now to seal in all that hard work I'm using a UV protected top coat to make sure the lights don't 10 yellow again in the future and now I'm playing this in a carefully methods in regards to overspray be more careful if you have a nice car and with that all done the lights are done and look absolutely awesome now it was time to tackle up body work naturally this started off by giving the car a good wash so I took my professor washer and blasted off any loose dirt and debris that was on the surface before finally finishing up on the wheels chuckling those monkey old wheel trims turned out to be a little bit harder than expected I hit the wheels with McGuire's Mira Bryce wheel cleaner that's in all honesty it isn't too much to lift any of the older breakage of stuff however it did leave the surface of the wheel trim looking clean and shiny both it was time to break out the big guns so I applied also claims new magma fallout remover to the wheels and the magic eraser and just scrubbed away now they were looking clean and scoffs both well I can do it about the scope so let's pretend they're not there finally I hit the tires with Otto Grimm's custom wheel cleaner whilst the job was too heavy for those products on the wheel trims themselves I find this product to be an awesome tire cleaner due to the – nature of the product and the fact its designs remove light brake dust next up is the pre-wash and I'm hitting the car with a combination of dish soap and water in a foam Lance why dear super hang a screen well it actually has his place in detailing from one of their mr. snip off any old wax or grease from the body work more effectively than a regular car shampoo just don't use this stuff on a maintenance wash with a love of Lucifer [Applause] after washing away the snow foam and I say snow foam in inverted commas they hit the card game of it just to provide some lubrication to the paint join the contact wash for the contact wash I use the two buckets methods with grits guards one filter dish soap and your food just warm water it also use a microfiber wash mitts and going straight motions to reduce the risk of scratches not that I think I'd make much of a difference on this Cup after I rinsed the car buff I was able to see what I was up against and boy was the car bad shape the sheer amount of stone chips alone was going to be a problem it also seemed to be a puncture wounds in a driver's door and some wheels contamination on the roof as well as some heavy deposits of tar on the doors time to move on to the fair state decontamination my for life to move of choice for this detail was magma by Auto glim and right now I'd like to apologize for the poor camerawork in this part of the video this is my first time user magma and I will post a review once I've had some more time with its one thing I do love is that doesn't smell like someone's took a dump in a plastic bag mixed in some rotten eggs let it mature in a song for a week this one is actually quite pleasant and smells of almond just to me as you can see there's a decent reaction to the fallout remover and I decided to agitate it with the bush just to see what happens then after wincing us off it was on to the second stage of decontamination tar removal this car has so much time on the door there really does look crap I'm hitting this with Tom glue remover by also finesse if I get the spray bottle to work that is Botev mess if you watching this please of greatest fate triggers the big ones on your bigger products work great after leaving it's a cyst for a few minutes I came back with a microfiber cloth and 90% of the tar came off in the first pass fantastic results every piece of the process again to get rid of the last of the tar normally IP movements are cleaning the car now for the day was drawing to a close and a knew I wasn't going to get the car finished boss before erupt filming up for the day and really wanted to do something about this fate of plastics no amount of product was going to restore them so I needed to take a more unconventional an extreme approach so I broke on my evolution heat gun the idea is by heating the plastic up to a very high temperature the oils embedded in the plastic will rise up to the surface and will take on a nice dark appearance and will be much more permanent than a dressing going carefully and making sure not to overheat an area the plastic kay more beautifully and that's it for part 1 of this video I'll be filming and uploading parts you soon way take care of the rest of the car so be sure to hit that subscribe button and hit the bell notification icon next to it to make sure you don't miss it when I uploads thanks for watching guys see you soon take care

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21 thoughts on “Restoring and Detailing A 270,000 Mile Car – Part 1

  1. Nice video. I do headlight polishing at the very end, after waxing, also masking with tape around the edges. The chemicals you apply to the polycarbonate can overflow onto the clearcoat. Even if you do not see, as being transparent, they do act quickly on the front that is anyway full of stone chips. The best solution for a long lasting black trim so far is to rub off the wax with coolant and heat it.

  2. Just word of advice for everyone. Where possible wash ya car on the grass. This way the earth can filter the filth, soap, grease, oils & chemicals out of the water before it flows back into the water ways. On driveways you just flush it straight into the street drains which contaminates the storm water.

  3. Nice work! I've used Meguair's Plastic Polish on the headlights of a few cars and it worked well too. I've used Magma on my clear coat and it was great, excellent and inexpensive Ferrous remover. Juts add some LED's to lights for the ultimate transformation, the owner will be amazed that they can actually SEE at night lol. One gets's used to gradually dimming lights and adjusts so of course seeing before and after is a good show of just how much improvement can be made for seemingly obvious and simple things.

  4. 3:21 And you just locked the dirt in place around the headlight with clear spray paint. 10 points. xD Just mask it next time.. It's not that hard and doesnt' take that much time 😛

  5. A trick that’s not as permanent and requires multiple layers is to take baby oil and wipe down the plastic with it. The plastic absorbs it and makes it look brand new!

  6. Anyone here that succeeded with the heating method? Is it safe to heat up that plastic like that? If i'm correct that looks like ABS plastic and it should be fine to heat and gently melt the surface just enough to give it a polish. Also the texture of that plastic part is important i think.

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